Workshop
Here are some basic steps for Ebru-style marbling on paper. Beware: The process of creating beautiful marbled designs can be addictive!
Supplies
- Alum - For preparing your paper.
- Carrageenan - For making the jelly-like solution that the paints float on.
- Methcel (Methocelulouse) - Some books recommend that you use it instead of Carrageenan.
- Oxgall Some books recommend it.
- A large, flat, shallow, tray. - Should be big enough to lay your paper down flat onto the surface.
- Straws, sticks, toothpicks, etc. - To swirl colors around with.
- Eye-droppers - To apply the dye. One for each color.
- Acrylic Paints
Preparation
- Spread newspaper over your work surface, usually the counter near your kitchen sink.
- Spread several other newspapers in a separate spot for drying. Cover these drying papers with one thickness of paper towel.
- Place your tub on the work surface and fill it half full with clean, tepid water.
- Allow the water to sit until the water's surface is completely still before beginning.
- It is also advisable to tear off several sheets of paper towelling and set them to the side. They will be used to layer between each sheet of newly decorated paper.
Preparing the "Size"
The first thing you need to do is to make the jellyish solution (the "size") onto which you are going to float the paints. This is best done 24 hours before it is going to be used. Add the Carrageenan slowly to the water as you stir it. Start with about 1/4 cup of Carrageenan per gallon of warm water. Make sure it's fully dissolved, then refrigerate for 24 hours to obtain the best viscosity and to allow trapped air bubbles to rise to the surface. Before use, it needs to be warmed to room temperature. The tray/container should have at least 2 inches of "size" in it. How big the tray needs to be depends on how big the objects are that you want to lay flat on the size surface. It can be anything from an aluminum roasting pan to a child's wading pool. Or make one as described above. How thick the "size" needs to be will vary with the brand of paint being used and the effects you wind up liking best. Add Carrageenan to thicken the size if needed. or water to thin it if necessary. Just before adding the paints, skim off any film that has formed on the surface of the "size" by dragging a strip of newspaper from one end to the other.
Reusing the Size
The "size" can be used over and over again. It can be kept for 3 to 4 days at room temperature before it begins to mold and must be discarded. To keep it longer, refrigerate. (Mark and tape the container clearly so it is not eaten). Warm it to room temperature before using. If the "size" has been sitting a while, clear the surface of tension with newspaper before using.
Floating the Paints
Thin the paints to the consistency of whole milk in a paper cup. With an eye-dropper, lay the paint on the surface of the "size" as gently as possible. The drop should spread out to a circle 2 to 3 inches in size. As the paint spreads out on the surface some may sink to the bottom - its OK as long as most of it stays on the surface. If too much seems to be sinking, thin the paint a bit more. If the drop spreads out too far, thicken the paint. Keep adding paint to the surface until they seem intense. As you add new colors, the ones added previously will intensify as they are pushed together. You can add new colors next to, or on top of the ones already there. The colors don't mix, but rather stay separate. You can remove the paint and start over by laying newspaper on the surface to pick up all the paint from the surface.
Making the Designs
With all the desired colors of paint on the surface, use a toothpick, a comb or straws, etc. to carefully create swirls and design patterns. You can create "negative" areas in the design by placing soapy water on the surface with an eye-dropper or by sprinkling it on. Use 1/8 teaspoon of liquid soap to 1/2 cup of water. Use this like a "clear paint" in your designs. Dip a whisk or a bundle of broom straws to flick drops onto the surface. The droplets give a different effect.
Hard and Soft Water
Most books suggest using distilled water. That could mean a lot of bottled water to buy. Try it first with tap or filtered water. If the water in your area is "hard" (contains lots of minerals) you will need to add some water softener. (See "Other Ingredients" section). Hard water will interfere with the process.
Preparing the Paper
Dissolve 1/8 cup of Alum per quart of hot water. Cool to room temperature. Dip a sponge into the alum solution and sponge it on to one side of your paper very thoroughly. Lay it out flat to air dry. The paper must be treated and must be dry before it is marbled.
Making the Print
Lay the paper down onto the surface of 2-5 seconds and lift off. If you can, lay the middle down first and let the ends roll out onto the surface so no air is trapped underneath. Try to "peel" the paper off the surface. Lay the item flat or hang and gently rinse with cold water to remove excess "size". Now lay out flat or hang to air dry.
This is not the Whole Story...
This is just a quick introduction to the topic. There's a lot more to say and to know. There are several good books on Marbling that go into greater detail and can help you get great results. Have fun!